Fall Make up

Lots of ideas and concepts from leading artists and runway shows. Stay current and look and feel beautiful.

The industry is going gold for the season. Eyes that sparkle as featured in the Desigual fall/winter 2014 New York Show. The run way girls were inspired by Mac Cosmetics, Gordon Espinet, using Gold metal pigments mixed with gloss texture for a liquid, glided texture and applied it in painterly strokes. Finishing with gold glitter on the center of the lid for extra shimmer.

Bold brows can read as masculine, but at Carolina Herrera, makeup artist Diane Kendal went for a less androgynous take: “They’re slightly more arched than they’ve been in other shows, and that makes them more feminine,” she said. Paired with the pinkish-purple stained lips (which Kendal created by swiping on M.A.C. Lipstick in Boysenberry and blotting it away), the overall effect was sophisticated and elegant.

We were amazed to find ourselves swooning over glittery green eye shadow—who would’ve thought it could be so light and pretty? “I wanted to give the message of playful sophistication, in a modern way,” said makeup artist Tom Pecheux. To get the look, he prepped the models’ lids with foundation, then coated a small, flat shadow brush with clear lip gloss and dipped it into the golden-lime-colored glitter, which he dabbed onto the lids. “You want [the glitter] to look diffused, not chunky or patchy,” he said. He kept the rest of the face neutral, so the focus stayed on the crazy gorgeous green.

The short, choppy wigs may have gotten a lot of attention, but it was the dramatic gray-brown eye makeup that stole the Oscar de la Renta show for us. “It’s a daytime smoky eye,” said makeup artist Gucci Westman. To create the muted but sultry look, she blended a dusty brown shadow all over the models’ lids, up to their eyebrows, and used the same shade to line the entire eye. Then she went over it with a medium-size powder brush to soften the edges and drew a thin line of Revlon ColorStay Liquid Eye Pen in Black along the upper and lower lash lines. For even more definition, she traced inside the models’

Makeup artist Pat McGrath drew inspiration from Sui’s current muses—Anna May Wong, Anjelica Huston, and the Art Deco movement—to create a bold, cinematic runway look. She chose a mix of intense reds for the lips (a combination of CoverGirl Queen Collection Lipstick in Fine Wine and CoverGirl LipPerfection Lipstick in Hot) and either sapphire or emerald eye shadow, depending on the model. After blending the shadow into a diffused cat-eye shape, McGrath patted a frostier shade at the inner corners of the eyes for brightness. The overall effect was fiercely glamorous.
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The lips makeup artist James Kaliardos gave models at the Rodarte show were part girlie (all that glitter), part ’80s punk (that brown shade), and fully mesmerizing. “It’s how you imagine fairy-tale makeup,” he said. He started by lining the models’ lips with an eyeliner (Nars Eyeliner in Mambo), then mixed his own lip color using loose glitter, Nars Lipstick in Deborah Audacious, and Nars Larger Than Life Lip Gloss in Rouge Tribal.
Makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury described the platinum eye shadow she gave models at the Donna Karan show as “punky and a little futuristic.” To get it, she lined the models’ eyes with M.A.C. Eyeliner in Phone Number, a gunmetal shade. She scribbled the same liner over the lids and blended it up toward the brow bones. Next she painted on an intense silver cream shadow (a shade she had mixed herself) at the corners of the eyes. For an even more chromelike shine, she topped it all with a clear gloss.

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